Off The Vine

By: John Noakes & Chef David Repp

Chef Dave Repp and I were talking to each other about this week’s column and recipe as we usually do…through our people, because we’re so popular now that we are feuding like The Eagles and we only see each other and speak face to face at appearances. Such is the price of fame I guess. Of course I’m just joking; Chef Repp and I absolutely love working together and creating columns and recipes, and of course trying everything before it gets to your table or goblet (the hard part of our job).

We’ve decided that this week’s column will discuss beer since we are smack-dab in the middle of Oktoberfest, and that the recipe would cover how to make basic stocks (chicken/beef). With the upcoming Wine Walk-About series resuming there will invariably be many recipes that involve stocks so we want our readers to be prepared with your very own already made and sitting in the freezer stock, because everything tastes better when it’s homemade.

What do we know about Oktoberfest besides that it is another guilt-free drinking holiday whereby I am free to drink beer out of an enormously large stein (huge glass) and consume so many grilled German pork sausages (Würst) with spicy brown mustard that my cardiologist would have a heart attack just watching me? For most of us sadly that is all we know about this raucous holiday that lasts for 16 days from September into early October in Munich, Germany. Of course the women all look like the St. Pauli Girl with beer steins in hand and ready to serve. The men are stuffed into their snug fitting Lederhosen like Clark Griswald in National Lampoon’s European Vacation, and of course there are the endless sounds of the accordion and polka music (no wonder we have to drink so much beer!) Yes, yes that is all wonderful, but as you know with my column I love to teach and to learn so gather around friends, fill your steins with beer and let’s learn very quickly where and why Oktoberfest originated.

Oktoberfest was originally created to celebrate the marriage of King Ludwig I and Princess Therese of Bavaria on October 18, 1810. The marriage and ensuing celebration was so grand and enjoyable that it was celebrated every year. One problem though, the weather in Germany is very unstable during mid to late October so it was pushed back to September and early October. By this point I imagine that you are already looking at the recipe so I’ll stop with the lesson and move on to some great Oktoberfest beers you should try this season.  Ayinger Oktober fest-Marzen (more full bodied and malty), Hofbrau Oktoberfest from Munich which is lighter in style and taste than Ayinger, and then there is Negra Modelo from Mexico…yes that’s right I said Mexico. It is the only German Dunkel-Lager style beer produced in Mexico.

Whichever beer you choose, the main point is that Oktoberfest is a great excuse to get all of your friends and family together to enjoy some good food, beer, and friendship in the great outdoors before the cold winter is upon us. Cheers!

BASIC CHICKEN STOCK

5 lbs chicken parts ,wings, backs, legs etc

1 medium onions peeled and chopped

2 carrots peeled and chopped

2 celery ribs rinsed and chopped

2 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

1 tbls whole black peppercorns

3 quarts cold water

Put all the ingredients in a large soup and bring to a boil

Simmer for 1 ½ hours skimming any scum and oil

Strain through a fine sieve and cool

BASIC BEEF STOCK

5 lbs beef or veal bones

1 tbls canola oil

1 cup red wine

2 medium onions peeled and chopped

2 carrots peeled  and chopped

2 celery ribs rinsed and chopped

3 Tbls tomato paste

1 gallon cold water

2 sprigs thyme

2 sprigs rosemary

1 tbls whole black pepper

2 bay leaves

Preheat the oven to 425

Place the bones on a medium sheet pan and roast in the oven for 1 hour

Mix the vegetables canola oil and tomato paste and spread around the bones

Keep roasting until the bones are nicely browned and vegetables are caramelized

When the bones are browned scrape them into a stock pot

Place the sheet pan on a burner and deglaze with the wine, scrape that into the pot

Add the water and herbs, bring to a quick boil then simmer for a least 4 hours

Strain through a fine sieve and cool